Pag Island in northern Dalmatia looks wild as you drive over the bridge: pale rock, almost no trees and a jagged coast. Yet behind that lunar first impression you find old stone towns, ancient olive trees, famous cheese, quiet coves and one of Europe’s loudest party beaches.
This Pag Island travel guide helps you decide where to stay, what to see and how to shape your days. It works whether you travel as a couple, a family or a group of friends chasing Pag Island party holidays. It covers Pag Town, Novalja, Zrće Beach, Lun and smaller villages, with ideas for beaches, hikes, boat trips and food experiences.
Where is Pag Island and why does it feel so different?
Pag Island sits in northern Dalmatia, between Zadar and the Kvarner islands. A bridge connects the southern part of the island to the mainland. In the north, a short car ferry links Žigljen on Pag to Prizna on the coast.
Strong bora winds shape Pag’s bare, rocky slopes. Salt and sea spray coat the stone. The result is a dramatic, moonlike landscape. The interior looks harsh, but the coast hides sheltered bays, small beaches and compact towns.
Most visitors arrive through Zadar. The drive to Pag Bridge takes under an hour. From there you cross straight onto the island and continue to Pag Town, Novalja or Lun. Split and Rijeka airports are further away but still possible.
First impressions: towns, villages and that lunar landscape
Pag Island is long and narrow. Distances can look short on the map, yet the roads curve and climb. It helps to understand the main bases before you book.
Pag Town Croatia: stone streets, salt and lace
Pag Town lies roughly in the middle of the island’s eastern coast. It sits in a deep bay, protected from the open sea. The old town has a planned Renaissance layout, with a central square, church and narrow side streets.
Here you feel Pag’s quieter, more traditional side. Everyday life still centres on the harbour, the salt pans and small workshops.
In Pag Town you can:
Stroll through the historic centre and sit on the main square.
Visit a lace gallery and learn about Pag lace and its UNESCO status.
Look at the salt pans from viewpoints above town.
Swim at town beaches or nearby bays.
Pag Town is a good choice if you want history, culture and relaxed evenings by the sea.
Novalja and Zrće Beach: between family base and party zone
Novalja stands in the northern part of Pag Island. It is the island’s main tourist hub and the gateway to Zrće Beach.
In the town itself you find apartments, a few hotels, supermarkets, bars and a busy seafront promenade. Families like Novalja because you can walk to beaches, playgrounds and cafés.
A short ride away you reach Zrće Beach. This long pebble bay hosts large open‑air clubs, beach bars and summer festivals. By day you can swim, try water sports and relax. At night the music gets loud, and the party can last until sunrise.
If you want nightlife, stay in or near Novalja. If you prefer quiet nights, choose Pag Town, Lun or smaller villages instead.
Lun and the olive gardens
At the far northern tip of the island lies Lun. The village itself is small, with a harbour and a few houses. The big attraction here is the olive landscape.
The Olive Gardens of Lun form a protected area with thousands of ancient olive trees. Some are more than a thousand years old. Paths wind between dry stone walls and twisted trunks. The sea appears between branches.
You can explore the Lun olive gardens on foot, by bike, on an e‑bike or by small tour vehicle. The area feels calm, even in high season. Sunsets from this part of the island are often beautiful.
Smaller villages: Kolan, Šimuni, Povljana, Metajna and Stara Novalja
Kolan sits inland, between Pag Town and Novalja. It is known for Pag cheese dairies and rural views. This is where many Pag Island food and wine tours start.
Šimuni lies on the western coast. It is famous for Camping Šimuni Pag, one of Croatia’s best‑known seaside campsites. Here you find mobile homes, glamping tents and long pebble beaches.
Povljana stands in the south of the island, closer to the bridge. It has family‑friendly beaches, a laid‑back feel and wetlands nearby.
Metajna and Stara Novalja stretch along narrow bays on the northern coast. They work well if you want sea views, boat moorings and quick access to hiking routes like the Life on Mars trail.
Best things to do on Pag Island
Pag Island days usually revolve around beaches and coves, rocky hiking routes and simple but memorable food experiences. Here are the main Pag Island attractions and experiences to fill your days.
Enjoy Pag Island beaches
Pag Island beaches range from lively party bays to tiny hidden coves. Most are pebbly or rocky with clear water.
Around Novalja you find beaches like Zrće, Planjka Trinćel and Caska. Planjka is popular with families because of its shallow water and facilities. Zrće Beach is busier and louder, especially in the evening.
Near Pag Town you can swim at Prosika Beach by the town centre or explore smaller coves along the coast. Follow the road in either direction and look for signed beach paths.
On the eastern side near Metajna and Ručica Beach the scenery turns very dramatic. Pale rock slopes plunge towards deep blue sea. These beaches can be exposed to sun and wind, so bring shade and water.
Around Šimuni and Povljana you find more classic holiday beaches. These areas suit visitors who want an easy walk from apartment or campsite to the water.
Wander the streets of Pag Town
Pag Town is compact, so you can explore it in a few relaxed hours. Start in the main square and visit the parish church. Step into narrow lanes where laundry hangs above stone steps.
Look for small windows displaying Pag lace. Many pieces are still made by hand. You can visit the Pag Lace Gallery to see traditional patterns and learn how the craft grew.
Walk down to the waterfront. From the harbour you see the salt pans stretching across the bay. A short climb to a nearby viewpoint gives you a better look at the geometric pools.
Stay in town for dinner. Try local dishes on a terrace, then finish with a stroll along the water.
Visit the Olive Gardens of Lun
Set aside at least half a day for Lun. The olive gardens feel like an outdoor museum without walls.
At the entrance you will find information about the trees and suggested walking routes. Paths are mostly easy, though surfaces can be uneven.
As you walk between the ancient olive trees, take time to notice the details. Twisted trunks, low stone walls and small patches of wild herbs tell the story of centuries of work.
You can taste Lun olive oil at local farms or shops. Many visitors say this is one of the highlights of their Pag Island holidays.
Hike the Life on Mars trail and other routes
Pag Island hiking suits travellers who like open views and rocky paths. Shade is limited, so start early and avoid the hottest hours in summer.
The best‑known route is the Life on Mars trail near Metajna. The path crosses barren slopes and offers wide views towards the sea and nearby islands. Sections near the coast feel very remote.
Wear sturdy shoes and carry plenty of water. Wind and sun can be strong. In return you get a sense of Pag’s wild heart that you never see from the main road.
Shorter walking trails exist near Pag Town, Novalja and Lun. Many follow old shepherd paths or coastal tracks.
Cycle between villages and viewpoints
Cycling is another good way to explore Pag Island. Roads are often quiet outside peak hours, and there are dedicated cycling routes in some parts.
Popular options include rides between Novalja and Lun, or loops that pass through Kolan and inland viewpoints. E‑bikes make hills and wind easier.
On a bike you can stop easily at small beaches, chapels and lookouts. It is a flexible way to link Pag Island outdoor activities in one day.
Join Pag Island boat trips and day trips
From Pag Town, Novalja and some villages you can join boat trips. Typical tours visit nearby coves, sea caves or neighbouring islands. Swimming stops and simple onboard lunches are common.
If you have a car, you can also plan day trips off the island. Zadar Old Town lies within easy reach. Plitvice Lakes and Paklenica National Park are longer but possible if you start early.
Food and drink on Pag Island
Pag Island food and wine form a big part of the experience. Salt, wind and stone all influence local flavours.
Pag cheese and cheese tasting
Pag cheese, or Paški sir, is one of Croatia’s most famous cheeses. It is a hard sheep’s cheese with a strong, slightly salty taste.
Sheep graze on low shrubs and herbs that grow between rocks. Bora winds bring sea salt onto the plants. This mix gives the milk, and the cheese, a special character.
You can visit dairies around Kolan and other villages. Many offer tastings and short tours. Some pair cheese with local wine, olives and cured meat.
Pag lamb and traditional dishes
Pag lamb is another island speciality. Animals roam the rocky slopes and eat the same salty, aromatic plants as the sheep.
Look for slow‑cooked lamb, lamb under the baking bell, or grilled cuts in traditional taverns. Portions can be generous, so consider sharing.
Along the coast you will also find classic Dalmatian seafood. Fresh fish, octopus salad and black risotto appear on many menus.
Olive oil, wine and salt
Olive groves, especially around Lun, produce rich olive oil. Tasting sessions often let you compare different blends.
Local wines tend to be simple and fresh, ideal for hot evenings. Ask for house wine in konobas and smaller restaurants.
Salt has shaped Pag’s economy for centuries. Today you can buy salt in many forms, from basic cooking salt to flavoured blends. It makes an easy souvenir.
Zrće Beach and Pag Island nightlife
Zrće Beach is the centre of Pag Island nightlife. During summer the beach hosts international DJs, electronic music festivals and themed parties.
By day Zrće looks like a large, organised pebble beach. There are sunbeds, beach bars, water sports and food stands. Families sometimes visit in the morning, when the atmosphere is calmer.
At night, clubs light up and the volume rises. If you stay in Novalja or near Zrće, expect noise and late nights during festival periods.
If you want to enjoy Zrće Beach but sleep in peace, consider staying in Pag Town, Lun, Povljana or quieter bays. You can drive or take a shuttle to the beach, then return to your quieter base.
Novalja nightlife is more varied. You will find cocktail bars, relaxed cafés and small clubs as well as louder venues.
Pag Island for different travellers
Is Pag Island only for party holidays? In reality, Pag Island suits many travel styles: the same island can host party breaks, family trips and quiet getaways.
Pag Island with kids
Families often choose Novalja, Pag Town, Šimuni or Povljana.
Reasons include:
Short walks to beaches from many apartments.
Gentle, shallow sections of sea in several bays.
Playgrounds, ice‑cream stands and simple restaurants.
Easy day trips that do not require long drives.
Camping Šimuni Pag is especially popular with families. The campsite offers long beaches, playgrounds, organised activities and various accommodation types.
Pag Island for couples
Couples usually look for a mix of scenery, food and relaxed evenings. Pag Town, Lun and smaller villages like Metajna or Stara Novalja work well.
You can:
Watch sunsets from quiet viewpoints.
Share Pag cheese and wine tastings.
Walk together through the Lun olive gardens.
Take boat trips to hidden coves.
If you like nightlife, you can still visit Zrće for one or two evenings, then escape back to your peaceful base.
Pag Island party holidays
If your main goal is nightlife, base yourself in or near Novalja. This gives quick access to Zrće Beach clubs and festival venues.
Plan your trip between late June and early September for the fullest event calendar. Check festival dates before you book.
During peak events, book accommodation early. Buses and taxis can get busy at night, so allow time for transfers.
Quiet corners and Pag Island quiet beaches
Even in high season you can find calm spots on Pag Island.
Look for:
Smaller bays on the eastern coast away from Zrće.
Villages at the end of narrow roads, such as some parts of Lun.
Early morning or late afternoon swims when crowds thin out.
Choosing an apartment or villa slightly away from main centres can make a big difference to noise levels.
Where to stay on Pag Island
You can sleep in classic hotels, family apartments, campsites, glamping tents or private villas with pools, and the best choice depends on your style and budget.
Pag Town, Novalja or somewhere smaller?
Pag Town suits visitors who like history, culture and calm evenings. You can walk almost everywhere and enjoy views over the bay.
Novalja suits those who want beaches and nightlife in one place. The town has the widest range of apartments and services.
Smaller places like Lun, Povljana, Šimuni, Metajna and Stara Novalja suit guests who want a slower pace and closer contact with nature.
Pag Island family apartments
Family apartments are the most common option. Many have small kitchens, balconies and parking. Look for units within easy walking distance of the sea.
Booking a larger apartment can work well for groups or extended families. You get more space and can prepare simple meals.
Pag Island camping and glamping
Camping Šimuni Pag offers pitches, mobile homes and glamping tents close to the water. Other, smaller campsites exist around the island.
Camping and glamping suit visitors who want immediate access to the beach and a relaxed community feeling. Facilities often include shops, restaurants and sports areas.
Pag Island villas with pool
Villas with pools are spreading across Pag Island, especially near Novalja and in quieter inland locations.
They work well for groups of friends or families who want privacy. A pool is also a nice backup when wind makes the sea less comfortable.
Pag Island boutique hotels and budget stays
Small hotels and guesthouses appear mainly in Pag Town and Novalja. They can include breakfast and sometimes half board.
Budget options usually mean simple rooms or older apartments. You may be a little further from the beach, but you can save on price.
Practical tips: when to visit Pag Island and how long to stay
When to visit Pag Island
Late spring and early autumn suit many travellers. May, June, September and early October usually bring pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds.
July and August are hottest and busiest. This is peak time for Zrće Beach festivals and Pag Island nightlife. Prices and noise levels rise accordingly.
Winter is quiet. Some hotels and restaurants close, especially outside Pag Town and Novalja. Choose this season only if you enjoy solitude and do not mind limited services.
How many days on Pag Island?
A Pag Island weekend break of three days lets you see highlights. You can visit Pag Town, relax on one or two beaches and make a short trip to Lun or Zrće.
One week on Pag Island gives you time to slow down. You can:
Try several beaches in different parts of the island.
Hike the Life on Mars trail.
Spend half a day in the Lun olive gardens.
Join a boat trip.
Enjoy more Pag cheese, lamb and local wine.
Longer stays work well if you plan remote work or simply like to settle in one place.
How to get to Pag Island and move around
Getting to Pag Island
Most visitors arrive by car or transfer from Zadar.
From the south, you cross onto the island via the Pag Bridge. The road then continues towards Povljana, Pag Town and Novalja.
From the north, you can take the Prizna–Žigljen ferry. Crossings are short and frequent in high season.
Buses connect Zadar with Pag Town and Novalja. Schedules can change by season, so check times close to your trip.
The nearest airport to Pag Island is Zadar. Split and Rijeka airports offer more flights but require a longer drive or bus journey.
Getting around Pag Island
A car gives you most freedom. Many beaches and viewpoints lie off the main road, at the end of narrow side routes.
Local buses link major settlements, but services may be limited. Taxis and organised transfers help connect Novalja with Zrće Beach, especially at night.
Cycling is possible for shorter distances, especially with e‑bikes. Be careful of wind and traffic.
Sample Pag Island itineraries
Pag Island weekend break
Day 1: Arrive, settle into your accommodation and take a first swim at the nearest beach. Spend the evening in Pag Town or Novalja, depending on where you stay.
Day 2: Drive to Lun and walk through the olive gardens. Stop for an olive oil or cheese tasting. In the afternoon, swim at a quiet bay on the way back. Evening at a tavern with Pag lamb or fresh fish.
Day 3: Explore Pag Town’s historic centre and lace tradition. Visit a viewpoint over the salt pans, then enjoy a final beach stop before departure.
One week on Pag Island
Day 1: Arrival and local beach time.
Day 2: Pag Town sightseeing, lace gallery visit and salt pan viewpoints.
Day 3: Lun olive gardens and northern coastal viewpoints.
Day 4: Life on Mars trail or another Pag Island hiking route near Metajna.
Day 5: Boat trip to nearby coves or islands, with swimming stops.
Day 6: Cheese tasting in Kolan and relaxed afternoon on a west coast beach.
Day 7: Optional night out at Zrće Beach or a final sunset in a quiet bay.
Adjust the order based on weather, wind and your energy.
FAQs
Is Pag Island worth visiting? Pag Island is worth visiting if you enjoy unusual landscapes, clear sea and a mix of traditions and modern tourism. You can experience party nights, quiet bays, ancient olive trees and famous cheese on one trip.
Is Pag Island good for families? Pag Island is suitable for families, especially in Pag Town, Šimuni, Povljana and parts of Novalja. Choose areas with calm beaches and avoid staying too close to Zrće Beach during major festivals.
Is Pag Island good for couples? Couples can enjoy romantic sunsets, slow walks in the Lun olive gardens and relaxed dinners in small taverns. If you like nightlife, you can add a few evenings at Zrće, then retreat to a quieter base.
When to visit Pag Island? For most travellers, May, June, September and early October offer the best balance of weather and crowds. Choose July and August if you want the full Zrće Beach festival scene and longest beach days.
How many days do you need on Pag Island? Plan at least three days for a first visit. A full week lets you explore more corners and enjoy slower days.
Can you swim on Pag Island in June? Yes, you can usually swim on Pag Island in June. Sea temperatures are already pleasant, and beaches are quieter than in peak summer.
Is Zrće Beach safe? Zrće Beach is generally safe if you use normal caution. Watch your belongings, drink water, respect the sea and follow local lifeguard advice. If you party late, arrange a safe way back to your accommodation.
Is Pag Island expensive? Pag Island prices vary by season and location. July and August, and areas near Zrće Beach, tend to be more expensive. You can save by travelling in shoulder season, booking apartments with kitchens and choosing quieter villages.
Plan your Pag Island holidays
Pag Island offers more than one story: a party island around Zrće Beach, an outdoor playground for hiking and cycling, a family‑friendly beach base and a destination for Pag cheese, olive oil and island heritage.
Decide what matters most to you. Choose a base that fits your style. Then build simple days around beaches, olive trees, views and good plates of cheese or lamb.
Start planning your Pag Island vacation. Pick your ideal town or village, compare a few apartments or hotels, sketch your own Pag Island itinerary and look forward to clear water, wide skies and a landscape you will not forget quickly.
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